January 2000
The Forces of Beauty and Desire in Fashion Imitation
Mon, 01/31/2000 - 15:36 — AnonymousHome > The Forces of Beauty and Desire in Fashion Imitation
The Forces of Beauty and Desire in Fashion Imitation
It would hardly be controversial to mention beauty and desire in the same sentence. We desire to be beautiful, to own beautiful objects, to be with beautiful people. Yet, whilst many theories of beauty search for its origins and role, the nature of desire itself is often neglected. Our daily experiences assure us that desiring something is a conscious, spontaneous act. The things we desire are the things we have chosen. But what if this is not the case? What would this mean for a theory of beauty?
Rene Girard (b. 1923), a French anthropologist, literary critic and religious writer, questions the assumption that desire is conscious and spontaneous. He views desire as something that is formed in the relationships people have with each other rather than as something found within individuals themselves. Perhaps more importantly, he stresses that imitation underlies the relationships in which desire is created. He claims that "humans learn what to desire by taking other people as models to imitate." (1) In contrast to the Platonic tradition in philosophy in which wanting is separated ...
More articles index
Tue, 01/18/2000 - 15:19 — AnonymousHome > More articles
Fashion Worlds: More Articles
Fashion and the 'Cult of Celebrity': Why are we so fascinated by celebrities and their lifestyles? This article suggests how the 'Cult of Celebrity' is implicated in aspects of fashion in contemporary culture.
The Forces of Beauty and Desire in Fashion Imitation: Rene Girard's theory of mimetic desire offers some useful insights into the psychological power of beauty in fashion culture.
Fashion Statements: How do clothes 'talk' to their wearers and viewers? This article investigates the psychology of the fashion language.
Cell Phone Fashion: Personalizing Mass Production by Emily Sims: The rise of the fashion phone is inextricably linked with the consumer's desire to differentiate themselves from other consumers. Once a high-tech to...
Temperley, Alice
Mon, 01/17/2000 - 13:58 — AnonymousHome > Temperley, Alice
Alice Temperley
Alice Temperley was born in England in 1975. Following her studies at the Central Saint Martin’s College of Art in London, she gained a Master’s degree at the Royal College of Art where she specialised in fabric technology and print. As a student, she designed one-off evening dresses for the boutiques of Fred Segal and Giorgio in Los Angeles. She was headhunted during her final year by Ratti, one of the leading Italian fabric companies. Turning down positions in international design in order to start her own label with her husband, Temperley pursued further research into the best silk mills and beading factories in Asia. This characteristic discipline and attention to detail is evident in the exquisite embroidery and traditional beading techniques of her handmade garments. Celebrity clients include Courtney Cox, Emma Thompson, Elizabeth Hurley and Claudia Schiffer. Actresses Sarah Jessica Parker and Kristen Davis wear designs by Temperley in the final episodes of ‘Sex in the City’.
Designed from her studio and showroom in London’s Notting Hill, Temperley’s Autumn/Winter 2004-5 collection is inspired by the gangsters of the early 1900s’ P...
Antwerp 6
Sun, 01/16/2000 - 16:47 — AnonymousHome > Fashion and the 'Antwerp Six'
Fashion and the ‘Antwerp Six’
An established part of the international fashion scene, Antwerp’s reputation today is closely tied to the impact of the so-called ‘Antwerp Six’. This group of talented designers, graduates of the Antwerp Academy from the years 1980 and 1981, brought the world’s attention to the inventive styles and impeccable craftsmanship of Belgium’s fashion industry. Trained by designer Linda Loppa, the original ‘Six’ are Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk Van Saene, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck and Marina Yee (replacing the almost reclusive Martin Margiela after his brief association with the group). Together, they staged fashion shows and events throughout the mid-80s. Their attempts to capture the attention of the international press and buyers famously included their unprecedented success at the 1988 London Fashion Week. It was this surprising event that placed Antwerp firmly on the map of the international fashion scene.
Despite their shared background in the fashion department of Antwerp’s Royal Academy, the styles of the six designers are distinctly varied. Whilst Van Noten’s scarves of exot...
Marshall, Hannah
Sat, 01/15/2000 - 16:43 — AnonymousHome > Marshall, Hannah
Hannah Marshall
Hannah Marshall is an up-and-coming innovative designer from Colchester in the UK. Born in 1982, she was selected to show her designs on Channel 4 in 2002, whilst still a BA (Hons) student in Fashion and Textile Design at the Colchester Institute. She was subsequently awarded a place at the 'Graduate Pioneer Programme' run by NESTA (the National Endowment for Science, Technology & the Arts), an organisation that invests in UK creativity and innovation. Her autumn/winter 2005 collection, 'Altered Beauty' explores both visual and tactile elements of communication through the incorporation of Braille into the fabric of her tailored garments. She has a signature style of clean and simple garments, yet modern and wearable, with fine attention to detail.
Recent Exhibitions and Awards
July 2003 - 'New Designers', Business Design Centre, London
June 2003 - Received the 'Franklins Needlecraft' award
June 2003 - Graduate Fashion Week, London
2001, 2002 - Alternative Fashion Week, London
Contact Information
E-mail: Hannah_marshall@msn.com
Web Link:
Stretton, Annah
Fri, 01/14/2000 - 16:04 — AnonymousHome > Stretton, Annah
Annah Stretton
Annah Stretton is a designer from New Zealand, based in Morrinsville. She was best known for the label Annah.S. with which she opened her stores in 1992, before rebranding to her full name of 'Annah Stretton' in 2003. Her 2003 designer T-shirt promoted awareness of Breast Cancer and 100% of the profits of every sale were donated to The New Zealand Breast Cancer Foundation. Finding inspiration from vintage clothing, she designed clothes for her collection, Time Pirates, which showed at L'Oréal Fashion week 2003. Her interest in the styles of many different eras is expressed in a rich combination of fabrics and accessories including safety pins, jewels, pearls and luxurious embroideries.
Prairie Girl, Annah S 
Highlander, Annah S
Photos courtesy of Annah Stretton
Lindbergh, Peter
Thu, 01/13/2000 - 11:03 — AnonymousHome > Lindbergh, Peter
Peter Lindbergh: Photographer
Peter Lindbergh was born on the Polish border of East Germany in 1944. His childhood background of stark industrial greyness in the West German town of Duisburg is an influential theme running through his work. A renowned master of black and white photography, Lindbergh typically uses mechanical, industrial scenery that lends a contrasting trademark directness and honesty to models in his fashion photography. Working with supermodels Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford, Lindbergh's photographs have appeared in every major fashion magazine and been commissioned for advertising campaigns by leading international fashion designers.
Fonssagrives, Lisa
Wed, 01/12/2000 - 10:33 — AnonymousHome > Fonssagrives, Lisa
Lisa Fonssagrives: Personality
Lisa Fonssagrives (1911-1992) was perhaps the first 'supermodel'. She was described as 'the highest paid, highest praised, high fashion model in the business'. Born in Sweden, she moved to Paris in the 1930s. Whilst training for the ballet, she met her first husband, the Parisian photographer Fernand Fonssagrives. Photographs of her subsequently appeared in publications, including Town and Country, Life, Vogue and the original Vanity Fair. Her background in ballet was evident in the grace and poise for which she became famous as a model. Although she described herself as no more than 'The clothes hanger', she became one of the most highly sought-after models in both Paris and New York. She posed for the photographers George Hoyningen-Huene, Man Ray, Horst, Erwin Blumenfeld, George Platt-Lynes, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Norman Parkinson, Richard Avedon and Irving Penn (her second husband). Her image appeared regularly on fashion magazine covers during the 1930s, 40s and 50s.
Kobayashi, Yukio
Tue, 01/11/2000 - 09:50 — AnonymousHome > Kobayashi, Yukio
Yukio Kobayashi: Designer
Yukio Kobayashi was born in 1951 in Niigata Prefecture. He entered the Matsuda (Nicole in Japan) menswear line in 1976 and began his career as a chief designer in 1983. In 1995, he took on the role of chief designer of womenswear. His work with the photographer Nan Goldin is published in photo collection books and exhibitions, including the New York: The Art Director's Club award-winning book of the autumn/winter 1996 Matsuda collection, Nan Goldin meets Yukio Kobayashi. His own design company, Kobayashi Design Office, follows his mission to create 'liberating' and 'genderless' clothes. Interested in ecological and environmental issues, Kobayashi ignores conventional brand-marketing strategies. He believes that fashion should be fun and 'synonomous to play'. His designs typically use sewing and decorative techniques such as needle punch and quilting.
Fashion in Weimar Germany
Mon, 01/10/2000 - 17:07 — AnonymousHome > Fashion in Weimar Germany
Fashion in Weimar Germany
Leave your troubles outside!
So- life is disappointing? Forget it!
We have no troubles here! Here life is beautiful...
The girls are beautiful...
Even the orchestra is beautiful! (1)
It is Germany, 1928. Raucous laughter from the cabaret seeps outside
as Lotte passes in the shadows of the cold Berlin night. The streets
are sexually charged, lined with a heady concoction of prostitution,
homosexuality, transvestism and drugs. Still spinning from the collective
lust roaring unashamedly through the theatre that evening, Lotte
heads now for the café bar at the Eden Hotel where she lives. Jostling
with leggy glamour girls as she takes her drink, Lotte pushes a
straying strand of short hair behind her ear, settles her slender
trouser-suited body into the deep folds of an armchair and smiles
provocatively as she lights a cigarette.
Berlin's interwar ...
